Pezenas

Historic centre of Pezenas. Image published under GNU Free Documentation License, version 1.2 or later

Pezenas is a small town located in the corridor between the coastal resorts of the Gulf of Lyon and the mountain ranges of the Upper Languedoc.

The town became a prosperous commercial centre during the Middle Ages since it was the venue of five annual wool fairs.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, Pezenas was the headquarters of the Governors of Languedoc, the Dukes of Montmorency and the Princes de Conti.

The historic centre of Pezenas, which once aspired to be the Versailles of Languedoc, was one of the first areas protected by the department of historic monuments, and boasts some impressive architecture.

There are numerous mansions with grand decorative doorways leading to interior courtyards with ornate iron balconies, marble statues, galleries, arches and columns.

Amongst the highlights are the stone renaissance staircase of the Hotel de Lacoste,  the impressive ornate balcony of the Hotel Carion de Nizas, and the three galleries and staircase of the Maison des Pauvres.

Stone renaissance staircase, Pezenas. Image published under GNU Free Documentation License, version 1.2 or later

In 1655 Moliere, on the invitation of the Prince de Conti, presented the premier of "Le Medicin Volant" amidst the beautiful columns and arches of the Hotel d'Alfonse.

A clue to the town's former prominence as a centre of patronage is the monument dedicated to Moliere, who visited the town with his theatrical troupe on three separate occasions between 1650 and 1656.

Moliere monument, Pezenas. Image published under GNU Free Documentation License, version 1.2 or later

The monument, constructed in 1897, was designed by Jean-Antoine Injalbert. It consists of an impressive bust of the playwright flanked by two figures.

On the left there is an adoring Monsieur de Pourceaugnac, a slightly pompous country gentleman who was one of the author's most famous comic characters, and who is presented here as an allegory of Pezenas. And on the right there is a petulant faun - a classical rural deity with goat's ears, horns, hind legs and a tail - who represents Moliere's  irreverent Gallic sense of humour.

Pezenas, however, has a far older theatrical tradition born of the shows and festivals which accompanied the trade fairs. Although a charming baroque theatre was constructed in the 17th century, most performances are now held in the open-air arena at the Parc Sans Souci.

The town's long tradition of street theatre is evident from the "Poulain", a huge wooden case covered by canvass and mounted by Estienne and Estienou, two local mythical figures. The Poulain is carried through the town on every festive occasion, particularly during the carnival on Shrove Tuesday.

Other totems include the "chevalet" a dancing equine figure also found in many surrounding villages.

Pezenas, as a former commercial hub, also possesses an enclosed Jewish quarter entered through the 14th century Porte Faugeres.

Porte Faugeres. Image published under GNU Free Documentation License, version 1.2 or later

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